choppercharles.com - Modified Motorcycles by ChopperCharles

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Title:

Modified Motorcycles by ChopperCharles
Age:

11 years old
Alexa Rank:

9,277,192
Total Sites Linking In (Alexa):

42
Domain's IP Country:

United States
Status Code:

OK
IP Address:

216.239.32.21
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choppercharles.com Whois Information:

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Domain Name:

choppercharles.com
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Domain Age:

11 years old
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ns69.domaincontrol.com
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Name Server 2:

ns70.domaincontrol.com
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Created:

Wednesday 24. August 2005
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Expires:

Thursday 24. August 2017
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godaddy.com, LLC

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Convince your friend to take the MSF course. It's a hassle. It's expensive. You lose an entire weekend. But it's totally worth every minute.
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Even after the MSF course, if they don't start riding right away, they will lose any skill they acquired VERY quickly.
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The first thing to do, before your friend even looks at a motorcycle, is to talk about target fixation. You go where you look. If your friend looks at the muddy ditch or the telephone pole, he's going to hit it. It's important to drill into the student, if there's trouble, if there's panic,
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You should take time to teach the student where the controls are. Clutch, brake, throttle, etc. I'm not going to go into that. (It's very helpful if the student knows how to drive a stick, that makes things *so* much easier.) But the SECOND most important lesson is, if there's trouble, if there's panic, the first thing to do is look where you want to go.
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The lesson should begin in a large parking lot, with the student slipping the clutch and walking the bike around. Feet on the ground, walking. If feet are dragging, he's going too fast. Slow it down and walk the bike while slipping the clutch
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Continue with starting and stopping in a straight line. Don't have them do it once. Or even twice. The student needs to complete 30 or so drills. Start moving, clutch completely out, clutch in, brake to a stop. Do it over and over again. Feet should be ON THE PEGS the moment the bike starts moving.
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When out of straightaway, have the student slip the clutch and WALK the bike around to point the other direction.
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Once he has a handle on that, it's time for turns. The hardest thing for a beginner is starting off and turning at the same time. So, use chalk or cones to set up an intersection in your parking lot, and have the student start off with making 90-degree right-hand turns. Feet should be on the pegs the moment the bike starts moving -- dragging your feet actually makes it much more difficult to execute the turn. Do another 30 drills, until he has it right. Then do left turns. Don't forget, you go where you look!
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Now he's ready to graduate to shifting. Have him go down the parking lot, upshifting until half way across, then downshifting the other half. Then turn around with feet on the pegs, and continue back the way he came. Again, at least 30 drills.
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Now your student is getting cocky, so it's time to go back to basics. Find a hill, and have the student practice holding the bike in place using only the clutch. Have him walk it up the hill, and then slip the clutch and roll it down the hill backwards. Clutch control is essential, it's the place where the beginner makes the most mistakes at first, and drills like these really make a difference in building skill -- and confidence.
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Now the student is ready to graduate to riding on the street. But limit it to lightly traveled surface roads at first, at slow speeds, with you FOLLOWING, not leading. This is so you can watch the student and make a judgement whether you should continue riding, or head back to the parking lot for more practice. It's also so the student doesn't feel like he or she has to keep up with you. You go at his pace.
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Modified Motorcycles by ChopperCharles
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Lots of people talk badly about pod filters, and insist that a bike with CV carbs will always run better with the stock airbox and filter. I'm here to tell you that's not true. Most motorcycles with CV carbs are built to a budget, and maximum performance was not in mind at the factory. As such, these bikes can often benefit from the increased airflow SOME pod filters provide.
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The V65 Magna has traditional forks, with a decidedly non-traditional internal design. Most of the forks I've worked on, when you remove the bottom allen bolt, the lower easily slides off of the tube. No fuss at all.
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I heated the crap out of the top of the fork lower, and then after two big slide hammers (wear welding gloves to grasp the lowers without burning yourself) the left lower popped right off. The right side needed much more heat, and instead the tube expanded enough that the lower race was able to pull right through the upper race. This required using a 4 lb sledge to tap the fork lower off, though. Slide-hammer wasn't enough.
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This is what the bushings on the left fork looked like. You can clearly see how the lower bushing is jammed into the upper bushing.
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BE CAREFUL. When aluminum is hot it's malleable, and you can easily, easily damage the aluminum with a mallet. You can actually overheat the aluminum, but it requires a LOT of propane heat. Or just a
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Once forks are removed in this manner, you're going to have to take apart the fork tubes as well. There are little plastic (pvc maybe?) bushings on the damping rod, and there's a good chance you may have melted them. Replace if they're damaged, and clean out any melty bits you find.
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When reassembling the forks, I test fitted everything this time. The upper bushing fit very tightly in the fork lower, so I took some sand paper and sanded off the layer of corrosion, dirt, grime, and muck there. I did the same for the fork seal area. I didn't remove metal, just the muck and nastiness and powdery corrosion.
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This time, instead of using PVC, I purchased an actual fork seal driver. I first used it to tap the upper race into place, and then to tap the seal into place. It took almost no force to install this time, and my OEM seals haven't leaked a drop. The driver is also very nice because you can leave the fork tube installed in the triple tree. This is what it looks like:
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I will never install seals without a properly sized driver again. The tool was $25 and it was SO easy to use, it made the job almost pleasant.
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I've had rearsets on my V65 for some time, but recently I just overhauled them, changed the mounting, and fixed some problems. While it was all apart, I figured I'd take photos and make a post. The first big problem I had is, I trashed my dented and rusty Kerker header, and installed a MAC 4-into-1 header. Because of the different design, the brake arm now directly contacted the header, so it had to be relocated. However, this same situation would occur with a stock bike, with stock collector and mufflers, so I think it'll be useful to post here. First thing I did was find some M10x1.5 bungs off of eBay, from
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I then removed the aluminum passenger brackets, and welded these to the position where the front-most bolt is located. Like this:
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choppercharles.com IP Information:

1.

Ip Address:

216.239.32.21
2.

Country:

United States
3.

Status Code:

OK
4.

Region Name:

California
5.

City Name:

Mountain View
6.

Zip Code:

94043
7.

Speed test:

22.9 ms

choppercharles.com Alexa Information:

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diyaudio.com
advrider.com
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